Samburu National Park



Samburu National Reserve Photorama

Driving out  from Treetops  for breakfast at Outspan Hotel, we saw  waterbucks, elephants and colourful birds in the Aberdare.  After breakfast began the journey to our next national park Samburu, located on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro river in  the dry northern province  of Kenya . Samburu can be reached through Thika and Nanyuki and through Isiolo. Nairobi to Isiolo is about 300km and the road is in good condition up to Moyale. The main entrance to the Reserve is through the Archer's Post Gate.




En route to the reserve, you have couple of striking features such as the crossing of the equator in Nanyuki and the background of Mount Kenya as you travel towards the northern hemisphere. Huge Blue Mountains in the horizon along with the white of the snow-capped mount Kenya are quite warming to visitors. Mount Kenya, just south of the equator is the highest mountain in Kenya and the second highest in Africa, after Kilimanjaro. Mount Kenya is a stratovolcano created approximately 3 million years after the opening of the East African Rift.
 Mount Kenya is regarded as the realm of Ngai, god of the local Kikuyu people. Traditionally, all Kikuyu homes were built to face this sacred peak. They call it Kirinyaga, or place of light. The mountain ragged series of peaks are crowned with snow, and its slopes are thick with forest. The mountain is best seen at dawn, when the days early light silhouettes its impressive summit high over the surrounding plains.


Established in 1962, Samburu Reserve occupies an area of 165km square.  The area experiences hot and dry climate of the equatorial region with cool nights. Temperatures ranges from 20-30 degrees Centigrade. Samburu receives about 350mm of rainfall. The natural vegetation is scrub glassy plains dominated by Acacia elator, Acacia tortolise, Salvadora pesica. Despite its remote location, Samburu is a very exclusive destination. Security is no longer a big issue in Samburu. Frequent patrols by rangers and scouts have reduced poaching and improved security. Samburu National Reserve is quite less visited destination and there is plenty to see and do as far as wildlife is concerned.

The area is inhabited by a wide variety of animalas,         so the      rare species some   only found in Samburu such as the long- necked gerenuk also known as the 'giraffe necked antelope' because of its ridiculously stretched neck adapted for browsing high into the bushes, reticulated giraffe that are different from their southern cousins in their perfectly arranged pattern,  Beisa oryx and  Grevy's  zebra.  The endangered Grevy's Zebra's original homelands were  Kenya, Ethiopia, Somalia and Eritrea. However continued warfare in some of these countries, overgrazing and agriculture has reduced significantly today leaving small pockets of population about 2700 exists in the world.

There are over 350 species of birds; Somali Ostrich, Red Billed Hornbill, Yellow Billed Hornbill , Vultures, Grey Headed Kingfisher (left), Lilac-Breasted Roller (right) is a member of the roller family of birds. It is widely distributed in sub-Saharan Africa and the southern Arabian Peninsula, preferring open woodland and savanna.

Vulture Guineafowl (left) is the largest extant guineafowl species, bird with a round body and small head. Saddled Billed Hornbill (right)   has a  bill shaped like a cow's horn, but without a twist, sometimes with a casque on the upper mandible.



Secretary Bird (left), is a large, mostly terrestrial bird of prey. Endemic to Africa,
Superb Starling (right) The Superb Starling has a long and loud song consisting of trills and chatters. At midday it gives a softer song of repeated phrases.   



The biggest excitement  in the safari

The most exciting  yet terrible  incident was the encounter with this solitary jumbo wandering around. Perhaps the jumbo would have felt threaten by our presence  and he  shook up the head and gave us a long chase. We had to turned the jeep and drove away from his territory for our safety.   In this fearful moment, I manged to capture elephant chase on my digital and video cameras. Just moving away from the  Jumbo, our Guide Paul,  responded to the radio communication receiver in the jeep "roja... roja...";  (the word we heard most in the safari)  received  from another safari vehicle that they  have just  seen a leopard running into a  bush chasing an impala.  As we approached the area, they were still looking for the leopard and we also drove in and around the bushes nearly  ten minutes  to spot the leopard, but  he was quick  to vanished  in the bushes.


There were hundreds of dik-diks, the very common dwarf antelope who is devoted to its mate for its entire lifetime is another special at Samburu.  Literally  you find them everywhere standing, running, staring, feeding and drinking. 




Reticulated Giraffe that are different from their southern cousins in their perfectly arranged pattern (left)








Ewaso Nyiro River
We drove to the other side of the park  to look for the Marsh Pride. The Ewaso Nyiro River separates Samburu from Buffalo Springs Reserve, a bridge connects the two. Nearby is the swampy wilderness of the Shaba National Reserve.  Samburu has been hit by a massive flash flood at dawn on 4th March 2010, just one month before we visited the park. This wave of rushing water has come from the Ewaso Nyiro River which has burst it's banks following heavy rain around Mount Kenya. Flash flood  has washed away   six lodges and the Save the Elephants Research Camp. The wreckage was unbelievable, the bridge connecting Samburu and Buffalo Springs  was completely destroyed by the heavy force of flood  water. (left)

Virtually no wildlife had been seen in the reserve for sometime since the floods. Small and young animals were unable to escape the flash floods or have died of exposure, while many larger animals like elephants have been disappeared; presumably they have had gone up into the hill. Water level has risen more than four feet  around the river banks and muddy marks on the trees were still visible.  The area around the river was  covered with lush green -  decorated with tiny white flowers  to witness the  nourishment of flood waters. 




Getting closer to Ewaso Nyiro river, we found hipos taking a dip in the water and  a crocodile resting on the river banks.   A herd of Samburu brown elephants crossing  the river to Buffalo Springs helping little ones to climb the river bank (below)



Samburu Tribe  - Cousins of Masai

The Samburu people  inhabit the region can be spotted within the Reserve's boundariso. The Samburu people's culture is as fascinating as that of the Masai people. The language and customs of the two tribes are so strikingly similar and there is a sense in which it is unfair that the Samburu are nowhere as famous as the Masai.  Thus, I thought of mentioning them in my blog for you to know them. 
They are semi-nomadic pastoralists whose lives revolve around their cows, sheep, goats, and camels. Milk is their main stay; sometimes it is mixed with blood. Meat is only eaten on special occasions. Generally they make soups from roots and barks and eat vegetables if living in an area where they can be grown. Most dress in very traditional clothing of bright red material and multi-beaded necklaces, bracelets and earring. Marriages of Samburu tribes are polygamous   unions where a man can marry as many wives as he is able to pay bride price for. The more livestock a man has, the easier it is for him to obtain a wife as bride price is paid with livestock, typically cattle. Intra-clan marriages are forbidden and marriages are arranged by families.
 

Samburu National Reserve has many accommodation facilities including camping sites. Most of the hotels, lodges are  located within the reserve.  We reserved Samburu Serena Safari Lodge located on the Esawo Nyiro  river bank but when we visited Kenya it had been destroyed by flash flood and the alternate was Samburu Sopa Lodge, that is built  on  top of a raised ground in the middle of the park next to the new Oryx airstrip. It has a  panoramic views of distant Samburu hills to one side and Mount Kenya  on the other.

In  the middle of the wonderful Samburu reserve, this lodge fits exactly to the environment. The rooms are laid out in thirty cottages, divided into two bedrooms designed to blend in with the  natural surroundings by adopting the style of the indigenous Samburu people.

The bedrooms are  tastefully appointed with two queen-size beds, shower and private veranda facing wilderness. The décor is distinctly Samburu-inspired with natural materials with bold and bright colours.   The rooms have high ceilings to keep the rooms airy with natural ventilation system with mesh covering  all openings so insects and mossies could not get in. 

 Samburu Sopa Lodge is extremely quiet and peacful at night. Sitting in the veranda ( ideal place to enjoy a drink under starry sky) in the evening after a tiring  game drive with the serene natural surroundings, hills and valleys, the dark starry nights, the myriad night-sound of insects and other wildlife, amidst of all these factors  stay in a lodge  that is within the reserve  is a dream made true.




Rooms are built in U shape around the huge straw thatched hut overlooking the   plain and the swimming pool.The  reception area (top right), restaurant  and the bar -  all under this magnificent hut make a perfect place to enjoy an afternoon cup of tea or the delicious Kenyan or international dishes  while  watching wildlife near the  water hole.


Lodge staff were friendly and very accomodating, unfortunately there were not many people staying at in the lodge while we were there. The  only downside was  Lodge switch off the power during day time, that left us little uncomfortable in the room  before leaving for evening game drive.




Our next destination was Ol Pejeta Conservancy - Sweetwaters  where we were privileged to stay in a luxury tent  close to wildlife.